Each Chef Should Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Dining Destinations.

When assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.

Alicia Gonzalez
Alicia Gonzalez

Elara is a digital journalist with a passion for breaking news and storytelling, focusing on technology and social trends.