Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.